The Day of Living Danishly: Legoland

On a recent trip to Denmark we embraced our inner child and visited one of the country’s top attractions, Legoland. After reading Helen Russell’s book, The Year of Living Danishly, we couldn’t resist the Legoland experience. Russell describes her year of adjusting to Danish culture when she accompanied her husband to Denmark, where he had a one-year assignment with Lego. We were intrigued and just had to check it out for ourselves.DSC_0200DSC_0202

Legoland is located in the small Danish city of Billund, which is essentially a company town centered around everything Lego. Billund only has about 6,000 people but because of Lego, it boasts the country’s second largest airport, directly adjacent to the Lego head offices and Legoland.DSC_0204DSC_0207DSC_0209

After having visited Disney World a few weeks previously, we found that Legoland is everything Disney World is not. Each of the two parks is a reflection of the culture of which it is a part. Disney World is big, noisy and full of artificiality designed to excite and to extract money from its customers. Legoland is small, polite and its attractions are designed more to entertain than to exploit. It’s genuinely family-friendly atmosphere and cute Lego designs would very likely never be enough to keep American youngsters, or their parents, entertained. Where Disney World is exhausting, Legoland is uplifting. Disney World is high-tech, Legoland is lo-tech. At Disney World it seemed like people were on a hell-bent quest to get in line for the next adrenaline-producing attraction. At Legoland, people sort of meander from one place to another. After all, figures made of Legos just aren’t quite as exciting as Star Wars.

Where Disney World has Tomorrow Land, Frontier Land, etc. Legoland has Pirate Land, Mainland, Adventure Land, Polar Land, Ninjago World and, our favorite, Legoredo Town, where a Danish version of the American West is portrayed.

We have been to Amsterdam, Kennedy Space Center and Washington. Why did we bother? It’s all here at Legoland.

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Hagenbeck’s Animal Park, Hamburg

On our recent visit to Hamburg we took the U-Bahn out to the suburb of Stelligen. Our objective was one of the most amazing and beautiful zoos we had ever seen, the Tierpark Hagenbeck. IMG_3673.jpg

This private zoo was the brainchild of Carl Hagenbeck, Jr., whose father was a Hamburg fish dealer and amateur animal collector. This zoo is actually a zoological garden, that is, it’s more of garden that happens to have animals in it. The park was opened in 1907 and is built to human scale with wandering paths, flower beds and ponds. IMG_3642IMG_3643

Hagenbeck was the first to use open enclosures surrounded by moats to house the zoo’s animals, rather than using barred cages. The result is a very close physical proximity of people to animals, for example, the elephant exhibit. IMG_3622IMG_3623 Here, under the watchful supervision of zookeepers, visitors can lean over a railing and personally feed the elephants carrots and apples sold at a nearby stand. This is a hit with visitors and it looks like the elephants enjoy the experience too.

Walkways meander around the animals’ habitat in a panorama style so that visitors never get the impression that they’re staring directly at the residents. As you wander around their homes, visitors can view the animals from a variety of angles, and very close-up. IMG_3627IMG_3638IMG_3645IMG_3648IMG_3656IMG_3658IMG_3668IMG_3675IMG_3677IMG_3680Regardless of one’s opinions of zoos in general, Hagenbeck’s is one of the best examples we’ve seen of respecting and caring for animals outside their natural habitat. From central Hamburg the park can be reached by taking the U2 to Hagenbecks Tierpark station. Their website is www. hagenbeck-tierpark.de.

Posted in Europe, Germany | 3 Comments

Searching for Roots: The Emigration Museum, Ballinstadt Hamburg

For many Americans, the search for their roots often takes them to the entry and exit points of their ancestors. It might be Ellis Island in New York, Gorée Island in Senegal or Bremen and Antwerp. On our own quest for answers, Jay and Tanya recently took a trip to the Emigration Museum in Ballinstadt, a suburb of Hamburg. The grounds of this once sprawling temporary city for European emigrants to America are much as they were during the center’s 33-year history, although most of the buildings are now gone. IMG_3607.jpgReconstructed buildings are those shown with green roofs in this photo.

Over the time period from 1850 to 1934, over 5 million Europeans made the journey through the port of Hamburg to start new lives elsewhere, many of those passed through Ballinstadt from the time it was built in 1901. Meticulous passenger records were maintained and these have been digitized and are capable of being searched online while at the center. Tanya was excited to find her Russian grandfather’s name in the database, documenting his passage from Hamburg to America in 1913.

In the early years of the 20th century, Europe, especially eastern Europe, was a place lots of people wanted to leave, even more so if you were Jewish. Born in Hamburg, Albert Ballin, who was Jewish, had inherited his father’s emigration agency in 1874. He developed it into a shipping line and facilitated the exit of people leaving Europe.  He eventually became the general director of Hamburg-America Line (HAPAG).

So many people were trying to leave Europe through Hamburg that they had no place to stay while waiting to board one of his 14 ships sailing for North and South America. Ballin solved this problem by building an emigration facility on an island about 5km away from the place where emigrants would eventually board their ship, several days or weeks later. Known as “The World’s Biggest Inn”, for two marks a day (compared to 3.25 marks at a hotel) people could get food, lodging and recreation while they waited for their ship. IMG_3610IMG_3611IMG_3612

Now Ballinstadt was not the Ritz by any means. But after traveling for several days from Russia, Poland, or Hungary, finally getting across the Prussian border and getting to Hamburg, exhausted and hungry emigrants were able to recover a bit before continuing on to their new homes.

There was practicality in having them stay at a place like Ballinstadt. Passengers had to undergo several medical exams while there because the shipping company knew that if the emigrant was rejected at their destination port, like Ellis Island, they would be forced to return to Hamburg at the shipping company’s expense.

Eastern European Jews were especially attracted to Hamburg as an exit point because Ballinstadt had its own synagogue, served kosher food and cultural differences between the several different arriving groups was respected. It was no bed of roses however. Men and women were housed in different buildings, children had to sleep two to a bed and there was often overcrowding. But Ballinstadt served its purpose as a transit point to a potentially better life abroad. IMG_3608IMG_3609

In April, 1934 Ballinstadt’s history as an emigration center began to end. The Nazis housed an SS division in two-thirds of the complex and for seven months people fleeing Germany were forced to live next to them. This was obviously not a good situation. In November of that year, the SS took over the entire complex and its history as a temporary home for emigrants ended. In 1939, Ballinstadt became Hamburg’s largest prisoner-of war camp, housing over 1,500 POWs from France, Belgium, Poland, Serbia and Russia and in 1947 it was used as temporary housing for Hamburg residents made homeless due to the war.

But for us, Ballinstadt was another valuable piece of the puzzle of discovering our roots.

Posted in Europe, Germany | 4 Comments

Ghent, Belgium

IMG_3570.jpgGhent, the capital of East Flanders, Belgium has been one of Jay and Tanya’s favorite places for years.

Ghent is often passed over in favor of nearby Brugge when travelers visit Belgium but this is a big mistake. Although Brugge is certainly beautiful it’s often overrun by tourists, especially in summer. Ghent, meanwhile, gives the impression that people actually live here, which they do. Like Brugge, it’s got scenic canals. It’s got chocolate. And, of course, it has oceans of Belgian beer.IMG_3571

Ghent’s historic center is a terrific place to sit outside, enjoy some Belgian frites and, of course, a glass of Westmalle or Leffe. IMG_3573IMG_3574IMG_3578IMG_3579IMG_3583

The most dramatic structure in town is the Gravensteen castle. IMG_3575Built in 1180, it was the home of the Counts of Flanders until the 14th century. At one point in history the castle was used as a prison and it now houses a torture museum complete with various means of inflicting physical punishment. This brings up another whole subject——why do so many towns in Belgium and Germany have an obligatory “torture museum”? I mean, it seems like some places that perhaps never had a history of torture at all now have opened a museum catering to bloodthirsty tourists eager to see examples of the iron chair, the rack or the head crusher. Yikes!! But, I think this kind of stuff actually did take place at Gravensteen.

Anyway, we guarantee a visit to Ghent won’t be a torturing experience. Just enjoy it like the Belgians do.

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Brest & Cherbourg, France

A few weeks ago, Jay and Tanya visited the Brittany and Normandy coast with stops in Brest and Cherbourg.

IMG_3527First of all, Brest is not one of those places tourists usually flock to. For one thing, it rains a lot here, an annual average of almost 48 inches in fact. Still not a lot by Oregon standards (Eugene 46”, Astoria 67”) but enough to keep most fair-weather tourists away. Secondly, Brest was almost completed destroyed in World War II so there’s not much for tourists to see. Located at the very westernmost tip of France, this seaport town of 140,000 is blessed with an important harbor that began serving the French navy in 1631. Unfortunately, Brest’s strategic location has also been a curse, since it was also the home of a large German U-Boat base during World War II. This made Brest a primary objective after the Allied invasion at Normandy in 1944. The plan was to take Brest and then use the port to help supply the Allied troops advancing across France. But the occupying Germans had other ideas. It took the Allies over six weeks to finally take the heavily defended city and in the course of the battle, practically all of Brest was completely destroyed. Before finally surrendering, the Germans destroyed most of the port facilities, making it useless to the Allies. Today, Brest is the home of France’s main naval training centers and a base for its nuclear-armed ballistic missile submarines.

On our rainy-day visit, there just wasn’t much going on in Brest besides people going about their everyday business and trying to stay dry. IMG_3529IMG_3530

Cherbourg, located up the French coast in Normandy, was also wet, but delightful. IMG_3558 For any of our readers old enough to remember, Cherbourg was the setting for the 1964 film, The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, starring Catherine Deneuve (The Most Beautiful Woman in the World). The movie was a smash, winning the Palme D’or at the Cannes Film Festival that year and the folks of Cherbourg have never forgotten it. IMG_3536

It was market day in Cherbourg and a little rain never deters determined shoppers. IMG_3531IMG_3534IMG_3537Wandering around town we discovered the Parc Emmanuel Liais. Mr. Liais was a former mayor of Cherbourg and dedicated much of his life to developing the grounds of this botanical garden. IMG_3553.jpg Naturally, Tanya was very excited about this place. IMG_3545IMG_3546IMG_3548IMG_3550

One of the advantages of just wandering around a new place is the discovery of monuments, plaques and other miscellany that might not otherwise be noted in any guidebooks. For example, Napoleon slept here and his statue memorializes this. We think he’s trying to point where his boat is docked.IMG_3555.jpgGerman bunkers still are in place along the shoreline. IMG_3565.jpg And, on the nearby city hall, we found this plaque dedicated to the memory of an American soldier, William F. Finley. IMG_3554.jpg We did a little research and found that on June 26, 1944, Sergeant Bill Finley had just celebrated his 20th birthday, one day before dashing under fire across Cherbourg’s main square to liberate the city hall, as part of the US Army’s 9th Infantry Division. Finley was from Decatur, Illinois and had joined the army in 1942 at age 17. He was later killed in action on April 1, 1945 in Germany, near Bad Kreuznach. He was just one of thousands of US soldiers who fought and died to liberate France.

Memories of the the second world war are strong in Normandy. So, it was not terribly surprising to see the vandalized offices of the recently defeated right-wing National Front party, led by Marine Le Pen. IMG_3557.jpgWe can only hope that today’s leaders have learned something from the disasters of the past.

Posted in Europe, France | 5 Comments

Bermuda: Pastels and Prosperity

Very early in our life of travel, we had the vague idea that Bermuda was part of the Caribbean. We knew it was a tropical-like island and its name just sounded like it should be Caribbean, like Barbados, Barbuda or Bonaire. And, indeed, at least one travel guide is titled, “Caribbean and Bermuda”. But, of course, from our first visit here 15 years ago, we knew better, especially after taking a 10-hour flight from Portland, Oregon.

Bermuda is one of those unique island groups that sits by itself out in the Atlantic Ocean, about 600 miles due east from Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. There are approximately 180 islands or islets here but only six are inhabited. The main island, Bermuda, has an area of about 21 square miles and a population of 70,000. Bermuda has the distinction of being the oldest self-governing colony in the British Commonwealth. It was named after its Spanish discoverer, Juan de Bermúdez, who happened upon the place in 1505. But Bermuda’s most favorite son is Alexander Hamilton, for whom the capital is named.

Besides its Anglican character, with English-style churches and British shops selling Wedgwood china and pubs featuring fish and chips, the most striking feature of Bermuda is the pastel coloring of almost everything.

Blue and pink permeate the land and seascape. Even the beaches are pink, a result of the gradually wearing away of coral reefs surrounding Bermuda. Car ownership is strictly regulated on Bermuda and rental cars are prohibited. Consequently, Bermuda is served by an efficient color-coded bus system—blue buses going out of Hamilton, pink buses inbound. There are no parking meters on Bermuda, no neon signs, no high-rise condos, no pollution, no slums, no income tax and full employment.

The wind patterns of Bermuda make it a sailing paradise and while we there we watched four different teams practicing for the upcoming America’s Cup races. Thrilling!DSC_0089DSC_0093DSC_0108DSC_0116DSC_0130DSC_0151

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Reflections on Florida

Jay and Tanya had never spent much time in Florida, besides Miami and Ft. Lauderdale. And, despite our recent 10-day visit to the state, we still cannot say that we really understand or fully appreciate it. But what we saw in the Sunshine State was both surprising and confirming. Surprising was the the disparity between rich and poor in Florida. Driving from Ft. Lauderdale to St. Augustine to Orlando we saw more Dollar General stores than McDonalds, more pawn shops than Starbucks and several gun stores and billboards advertising upcoming gun shows. OK, the gun stores were not all that surprising. We shopped at Winn-Dixie, where we saw lots of folks who were obviously on the lower rungs of the food chain.

Of course, we saw lots of pickups but only one flying a large Confederate flag. Lots of churches (mostly Baptist), and lots of billboards advertising the services of personal injury attorneys, complete with testimonials such as, “Bob won me $250,000!” and “Winning is Everything!” These were some of the surprises. Another surprise—not too many Trump/Pence stickers. We both wondered why so many people decide to move here. Our best guess is that wherever they come from must be a lot worse than here.

Our confirmations included seeing beautiful beaches, beautiful houses, and beautiful boats floating on beautiful waterways. We just had to assume there were beautiful people behind all those gates. West Palm Beach, Boca Raton, New Smyrna Beach—all exuding the confirming perception of wealth. Acres of condos at Daytona Beach and billboards with digital displays indicating the current waiting time at local emergency rooms and others extolling the virtues of dental implants confirmed the age demographic for which Florida is noted.

So, that was the Florida we experienced. But then it was on to America’s contribution to Western culture, that fantasy of Americana and of just plain fantasy—DISNEYWORLD!!

Three straight days of experiencing the Magic Kingdom, Epcot and Hollywood Studios left us physically, psychologically and financially exhausted. But hey, like Mecca for Muslims, DisneyWorld or Disneyland are places every American should visit if they can. Don’t ask us why, because the whole enterprise is pretty bizarre. Just embrace it. IMG_3471IMG_3474IMG_3490IMG_3505IMG_3509IMG_3512IMG_3517IMG_3520IMG_3521IMG_3524

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St. Augustine, Florida

Cities in Europe are old. They may not be as old as some in the Middle East, but when you consider there are remnants of Roman settlements over 2,000 years old all over the place in Europe, still being occupied, you have have to consider these places old. But, of course, the US is part of the “new world” and so we have to be content with the relatively young St. Augustine, Florida, founded by the Spanish in 1565, as being the “oldest city in America”. The more precise description nowadays is the label “the oldest continuously occupied European-established settlement within the borders of the continental United States” but, in the eyes of the tourist industry here, St. Augustine is still considered the oldest town in America and that’s the way it’s promoted.

Old City GateIMG_3434

Inside the Castillo de San MarcosIMG_3461

Jay doing his Baron von Munchhausen impersonation in the town square.IMG_3441

Probably the most impressive buildings in St. Augustine are the Ponce de Leon Hotel and its sister hotel, the Alcazar, directly across the street. The Ponce de Leon is now the home of Flagler College, and was built in 1888 by oil and railroad tycoon, Henry Flagler. Flagler was no lightweight for his time and, along with John D. Rockefeller, was one of the partners who founded Standard Oil. By 1880, Flagler was 50, had become incredibly rich from the oil business and like wealthy people today, decided to spend time in Florida for the winter. Flagler’s wife, Mary, died the following year and two years later Henry married one of his wife’s nurses, Alice. Well, Henry wanted to spend his honeymoon in St. Augustine with his new bride and offered to buy the newly-completed Villa Zorayda on King Street from its owner, Franklin Smith. zorayda-museum-ext-2-10x6web(source: Wikipedia)

Smith wouldn’t sell the building, but he encouraged Flagler to invest in Florida real estate. We’re not sure what hotel Henry and Alice stayed in for their honeymoon but it must have irked Flagler that he couldn’t get what he wanted from Smith so, in true tycoon style, Flagler decided to build his own building, the 540-room Ponce de Leon Hotel. IMG_3453He wanted the hotel to be a resort designed as “an exclusive and opulent playground for the world’s most privileged elite”, according to the visitors’ brochure. To handle the overflow from the Ponce de Leon, he built the Alcazar hotel across the street, a place almost as grand. IMG_3448The Alcazar now houses a museum and the St. Augustine City Hall. Visitors are advised to leave their weapons at the door. IMG_3455

The Ponce de Leon is now home to Flagler College and has been restored to the tune of over $54 million. IMG_3450And, they don’t want any vagrants hanging around the sidewalk and sitting on the hedge.IMG_3445.jpg  At the entrance to the college, there’s a very dignified statue of old Henry. IMG_3446 We couldn’t help comparing it to the statue of Emil Faber in the movie, Animal House: “Knowledge is Good”. Maybe the Animal House producers were thinking of old Henry when they made the film.

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Kennedy Space Center: A Day Filled With Awe

With the around-the-world trip behind them, the traveling maniacs decided to spend 10 days in Florida before heading home. So many people we had met on our trip were from Florida, so we thought we’d give it try.

First stop was the Kennedy Space Center at Cape Canaveral. DSC_0082DSC_0144This area is so massive that it really takes a full day to appreciate. DSC_0084

Today, the word “awesome” is so over-used that it has lost the power of its meaning. But one of the word’s synonyms, “awe-inspiring”, is a good way to describe the impact the Kennedy Space Center has on the visitor. The center gives one the chance to escape the constant barrage of political negativity that plagues the United States. It reminds us of what America can do, and has done, with unity of purpose. Maybe spending billions of dollars sending people and equipment into space has no legitimate objective. Maybe none of this advances the state of mankind. But there is simply no way to deny the amazement, the awe, of seeing these machines made by humans to propel us into the unknown. The undeniable courage of the men and women who have deliberately put themselves on top of what is literally a tube filled with explosives, allowing themselves to be hurled into space with the expectation and trust that they will return to earth alive is truly “awesome”.

US Astronaut Hall of Fame and Rocket Garden

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20-story building where the Mars rocket is being built
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Saturn V Rocket


Lunar landing vehicle: Apollo 11–“The Eagle has Landed”DSC_0109DSC_0112

Apollo capsule mockup and actual capsuleDSC_0117DSC_0123
Space Shuttle AtlantisDSC_0129DSC_0133DSC_0134DSC_0135DSC_0137

We visited KSC on a Saturday and only missed experiencing an actual launch by a couple of days, a Space X rocket preparing to blast off on Monday. We did see the rocket on its pad getting ready to blast off and were able to watch it live on TV a couple of days later. The mission was to launch a top-secret “reconnaisance” satellite. But the most amazing thing about this particular launch was the return to earth of the solid fuel booster. Here’s what we’re talking about: notice the two white solid fuel boosters on the space shuttle rocket. DSC_0081 Normally, after the payload is about to be placed in orbit, these re-usable boosters drop off, re-enter the atmosphere and land in the ocean. That was the case in the space shuttle launches and the boosters then had to be recovered, an often tricky and dangerous phase of the operation.

With the Space X launch, the payload sat atop one of these boosters. After the booster dropped off and began to re-enter the atmosphere we watched in amazement as the booster was maneuvered as it fell so that it landed exactly on the landing pad where it had been launched several minutes before! No more ocean recoveries. It was absolutely incredible. Then all the Space X team needs to do is re-fill the booster, give it a new paint job and it’s ready to blast off again. Well, maybe not that simple but you get the idea.

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Have Some Madeira, My Dear-ah

There is definitely something different about islands. And, we mean islands in general.

OK, it’s not the obvious that they’re all surrounded by water. It’s that people who live on islands need to be somewhat self-reliant. Consequently, they develop their own subcultures and their own sort of quirkiness. And it seems the smaller the island, the quirkier. For example, Jay’s mom grew up on a small island in the middle of the Columbia River. Everyone on the island knew each other (and each other’s business) and the “islanders” were looked upon as being different from their neighbors in oh-so-cosmopolitan Cathlamet on the mainland of Washington. Even the folks on large islands, like Great Britain, are so quirky they can’t even agree to be part of their European neighborhood 20 miles across the Channel. And, the odds are that the 100 residents on Pitcairn Island definitely have developed their own individual subculture. All this verbiage merely serves as a prelude to our adventuring duo’s final stop on their 2017 Insanity tour, the Portuguese Island of Madeira, a wonderful conclusion to this around-the-world madness.

Folks on Madeira definitely display their own unique quirkiness. Who else would think it was wildly entertaining to have two guys in white outfits and straw hats push and guide two-person wicker baskets on a 10-minute sleigh ride down city streets? This activity has continued for decades ever since someone once had this goofy idea and it’s now a major tourist event on the island. IMG_3399

Or, how about the idea of marketing a sweet port-like wine, sold in regular, five and ten-year vintages as a product that was miraculously discovered after a barrel of normal wine was accidentally left out in the hot sun, and when opened, “voila”, Madeira! Seems that we’ve heard something similar in the Dom Perignon story of the French monk who discovered champagne, “Brothers! I am drinking stars!”.

Another oddity—Madeira supposedly features the world’s largest New Year’s Eve fireworks show, a claim we’d never heard before and have no way of verifying. There aren’t all that many people who live on the island so maybe this is their big way of entertaining themselves once a year.

But, arguably the quirkiest spot on Madeira is the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens. Accessed by taking the Teleferico do Funchal cable car up to the hillside overlooking the main town of Funchal, this place is both beautiful and bizarre.

Originally developed as a pleasant estate by the British Consul to Madeira, Charles Murray, in the 18th century, the property was acquired in 1897 by Alfredo Guilherme Rodriguez, a guy who obviously possessed a certain degree of quirkiness. He built the Monte Palace Hotel on the site and developed a portion of the grounds based upon the places he had traveled to. IMG_3395 Rodriguez especially liked the castles he had seen on the Rhine River in Germany and tried to replicate some of what he had seen.

But then Rodriguez really got carried away and developed the grounds into a Japanese style park.

Rodriquez then went on to include in the park one of the largest collections of tile panels in the world, many of which are from the 15th and 16th centuries, depicting Portuguese history. This particular tile caught our eye and shows a smiling warrior gouging out another guy’s eye before doing him in with his sword. Poor smiling guy doesn’t see the enemy warrior behind him who is about to chop off smiling guy’s own head. Very entertaining. IMG_3393.jpg

To top off the variety of themes at the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens there is a little museum that features a collection of sculptures from Zimbabwe and a display of minerals from Brazil, Portugal, South Africa, Zambia, Peru and Argentina. We overheard one visitor leaving the museum saying, “What the heck was that all about?”. The hotel and complex were closed after the death of Rodriguez in 1943, taken over by the bank and finally sold to another quirky guy in 1987, who was responsible for the African art, restoring the grounds and keeping the operation going. The Gardens may be unusual but they are indeed beautiful and a highlight of Funchal, Madeira.

The city of Funchal itself is full of gardens and its residents, many of whom are retired, enjoy the sunny days and overall relaxed atmosphere of this beautiful island.

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